During the closing session of the summit, Melinda Hou, Executive Director of the Good Food Fund (GFF 粮食基金), was visibly moved. In 2017, when the first Good Food Summit was organized, it mostly featured foreign speakers. Now, seven years later, GFF has successfully attracted over 150 participants and numerous speakers, underscoring that healthy, environmentally, and climate-friendly nutrition is now embraced by leaders in Chinese politics, science, the food industry, and the culinary sector.
Taking place from 1 – 3 November 2024, the conference gathered prominent experts in Chinese agriculture and food policy, including Fan Shenggen, agricultural economist and former head of the International Food Policy Research Institute; Yu Kangzhen, former Vice Minister of the Chinese Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs (MARA) and advisor to the State Council; and Huang Jiazhang, Director and Chief Scientist at MARA’s Center for Food and Nutrition Policy Research.
The theme of this year’s conference, “Future Food Leads Future Cities,” aligned with the expertise of the host, Hangzhou Normal University’s Institute for International Urban Studies. Many presentations highlighted local initiatives promoting healthy and sustainable diets.
Many speakers acknowledged the need for continued progress toward sustainable, healthy food systems. China has solved the problem of hunger and malnutrition on a national scale since the 1990s, but rising prosperity has also brought increases in diet-related illnesses such as obesity, heart disease, diabetes, and cancer. These are often linked to the shift toward convenience and fast foods, especially in cities and among younger generations.
Former Vice Minister Yu Kangzhen addressed these issues in his keynote, stressing the need to reduce red meat consumption. He noted that some Chinese regional cuisines, similar to the Mediterranean diet, could serve as models for healthier eating by promoting low-cholesterol, plant-based proteins. Many speakers echoed this sentiment. Chen Zhengang, International Dean of Zhejiang University’s China Rural Development Research Institute, went further, calling for a “nutrition revolution” among urban Chinese residents.
Philip Lymbery, CEO of Compassion in World Farming (CIWF), discussed the environmental impact of animal-based diets, noting that 14.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions are linked to livestock production. He advocated for “eating fewer but better” animal products. WWF International’s Chief Scientist, Brent Loken, presented striking statistics, underscoring that the conventional food system consumes 70% of global water, 40% of land, and contributes 30% of greenhouse gas emissions. Loken suggested that China could be pivotal in food system transformation. Historically, Chinese agricultural policy has prioritized production, with less focus on food waste reduction and dietary change.
In another panel, organic farmers shared the challenges of producing high-quality, healthy food. Qin Jun, who runs a Demeter-certified farm near Nanjing specializing in organic eggs, spoke about the strict requirements for organic certification. Due to the lack of certified organic feed, he grows feed for his chickens himself. Xu Xiaohan, manager of an organic farm in Hubei, highlighted the difficulty of finding young workers. Shi Yan, who pioneered Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) in China, noted that the prices for organic products do not reflect the labor and environmental benefits they offer.
Day two of the conference centered on human health and nutrition. Min Yang, a professor in Zhejiang University’s Department of Nutrition and Food, introduced the Chinese Heart Health Diet, a plant-and-fish-based diet inspired by Jiangnan cuisine (the regional cuisines south of the Yangzi River). Ken Toong, Director of Dining at the University of Massachusetts, and Ellen Touchstone, Associate Dean at Suzhou’s International Business School, discussed initiatives to incorporate healthy food in dining halls and encourage healthier eating habits among students.
Zhou Jing from the Good Food Fund emphasized the importance of involving restaurants, chefs, and delivery services like Meituan. The Good Food Fund has developed an online chef training program on preparing low-carbon, healthy meals and published a cookbook with recipes for a “healthy planet.” Their Meatless Monday campaign now includes over 200 restaurants across China. Chef Lee from Bistro & Bowl in Dali shared that “Meatless Monday” has become the busiest day at his restaurant, and he relies on seasonal and regional ingredients.
However, a subsequent panel highlighted that these initiatives are still relatively rare. Professor Xue Li from China Agricultural University shared a study revealing that a high proportion of respondents rely heavily on takeaway and convenience food. Shelly Lu from ProVeg reported that only around 1.5% of Chinese students are vegetarian, compared to about 30% in Germany. Thomas DuBois, a nutrition historian at Beijing Normal University, remarked that junk food and fast food options are often the only available choices in places like airports and train stations.
Zhang Ting, a representative of “The Knot”, a collective of anthropologists, psychologists, and artists, discussed how Chinese cuisine could improve its image globally. While Western perceptions of Chinese food often focus on takeout or greasy options, the world knows little about Chinese fine dining, regional differences, unique ingredients, and the artistic presentation of dishes. Many panelists agreed that this story deserves global attention.
Representatives of the Chinese slow food movement showcased what “new Chinese cuisine” can offer. Chef Zhang Yi, who has worked in prestigious restaurants in Japan and Paris, shared striking images of her award-winning dishes and explained her philosophy of cooking.
On the first evening, conference participants enjoyed a dinner prepared by chefs like Lee from Dali and Zhang Yi at a countryside inn outside Hangzhou. Overall, the three-day conference provided a comprehensive overview of China’s good food movement and generated fresh ideas for the future of food. However, it also highlighted that much work remains. As Philip Lymbery (CIWF) concluded in one of the panels: “We need an 18th Sustainable Development Goal—good and affordable food for everyone as a basic human right”.
